Gold plated vs real gold: the difference, simply explained

Ever seen “18K gold” on a piece of jewellery and wondered if it’s real gold? The difference between gold plated and real gold is all about where the gold is: in real gold, also called solid gold, the gold alloy runs through the whole piece; in gold plated jewellery, the gold is just a thin layer on the surface, over another metal. In between there are confusing words like vermeil, gold filled, rolled gold and gold-tone. Here we put them in order, along with the signs to check before you buy.

Solid 18K gold: what 750 means

The carat tells you how much pure gold there is in an alloy, on a scale of 24. 18 carat gold means 18 parts gold out of 24, or 750 parts in 1,000: that’s why you’ll also see it called 750 gold, or 750 fineness.

The remaining parts are other metals, like silver and copper. They’re added because pure gold is very soft, and they change the final shade: yellow, rose or white. “Solid” means the alloy runs through the whole piece, not just the outside.

Gold plated, vermeil, gold filled, costume jewellery: what changes

Gold plated

A base metal (for example brass, copper, silver or steel) is covered with a thin layer of gold, usually by electroplating. The thickness varies a lot from one maker to another and isn’t always stated. On the outside you see the colour of gold, but underneath there’s another metal.

Vermeil

It’s plating on a precious base: 925 sterling silver covered in gold. That’s why vermeil jewellery usually carries the silver stamp, 925, not the gold one. If the gold layer wears away, the silver shows through, and silver can darken over time.

Gold filled or rolled gold

Here the gold isn’t deposited in a bath: it’s bonded to the base metal with heat and pressure, like a sheet. The layer is usually thicker than ordinary plating, but it’s still a layer: rolled gold isn’t solid gold either.

Gold-tone costume jewellery

This is jewellery in a common metal with a gold-coloured finish, which might be a very thin gilding or another surface treatment. The description doesn’t always say what the base metal is: if that information is missing, ask before you buy.

How to tell real gold from gold plated

• Look for the hallmark. Solid 18K gold is usually stamped 750, a small number in a discreet spot: inside a ring, on the clasp of a necklace or bracelet, on the post of an earring. There’s often a maker’s mark next to it. As a rule you won’t find 750 on gold plated jewellery: if in doubt, ask the seller what metal it’s made of.
• Read the whole name, not just “18K gold”. If you see words like plated, vermeil, rolled gold, gold filled or gold-tone next to it, it isn’t solid gold.
• Found 925 instead of 750? That number means silver: a gold-coloured piece stamped 925 is silver with a gold finish, like vermeil.
• Price is a clue, not proof. Solid gold costs a lot more than a plated version of the same design, because you’re also paying for the precious metal.
• If in doubt, ask a jeweller: they can check the fineness with the right tools. The DIY tests you see online won’t give you a definite answer.

Gold plated vs real gold: pros and cons

There’s no right choice for everyone: it depends on how much you want to spend and how you wear your jewellery.

• Solid 18K gold. Pros: it’s solid gold all the way through, so there’s no layer to wear off, and the metal has a value of its own. Cons: it costs a lot more, and even solid gold scratches, so it needs looking after.
• Vermeil and gold filled. Pros: they cost less than solid gold; vermeil still has a silver base. Cons: the gold layer is still just a layer, which can wear with use.
• Gold plated. Pros: an affordable price, so you can have more pieces to mix and match and change your style whenever you like. Cons: plating can wear over time; how long it lasts depends on the base metal, how it’s made and how you treat it.
• Gold-tone costume jewellery. Pros: it’s cheap. Cons: you don’t always know what it’s made of, and the finish can wear quickly.

How to make gold plated jewellery last longer

Plating needs a little care: rubbing against skin and clothes, sweat, chlorine, salt and cosmetics can wear it down bit by bit, especially on the most exposed spots. A few simple habits help:

• To make it last longer, take it off in the pool and at the beach.
• Put on creams, perfume and hairspray before your jewellery, not after.
• Take it off when you’re using detergents or household cleaning products.
• After wearing, wipe it with a soft, dry cloth.
• Store pieces separately, in a pouch or a little box, so they don’t scratch each other.

You’ll find all our tips on the jewellery care page.

And UpperEast jewellery?

Let’s be clear about ourselves too: UpperEast jewellery is 18K gold plated stainless steel. It isn’t solid gold. It’s covered by our written anti-tarnish guarantee, which you can read in full on its own page.

If you’d like to have a look at a few pieces, start with the earrings or the necklaces and take your time reading each product page: as you’ve seen, the material is the first thing to check.